Adjusting the Scythe Correctly

A properly adjusted scythe is essential for easy, clean mowing.
Only when the snath, blade, grip positions, and blade angle are correctly aligned can you guide the scythe upright, with smooth motion and minimal effort.

This chapter covers the practical basic adjustment of your scythe:
from mounting the blade to setting the grip positions, cutting height, and blade angle.

We explain the correct adjustment in 7 steps:

1. Prerequisites for Adjustment

Before you begin adjusting, certain basic conditions should be met:

The snath is the correct length for your height.
The scythe blade is suitable for the intended application.
The edge is in good condition (not severely damaged) and already basically sharpened.
You have a scythe wrench (or adjustable wrench) and, if needed, a wooden wedge at hand.

It is easiest to make all adjustments on a level, firm surface, such as a paved area or solid path.

2. Attaching the Scythe Blade to the Snath

First, the scythe blade is attached to the tang section of the snath using the scythe ring.

Position the snath in front of you so that the nib hole in the tang section faces toward you.
Slide the scythe ring over the tang section from above, with the screws pointing toward you.
Place the tang of the scythe blade against the underside of the tang section so that the nib engages in the nib hole.
Slide the scythe ring downward until it secures the tang. A small portion (approximately 1 cm) should still be visible at the end of the blade.
Tighten the screws of the scythe ring only enough so that the blade is held in place but can still be adjusted by hand.

In this state, the scythe is “provisionally” mounted. Blade angle and grip positions can now be adjusted one after another before you finally tighten everything securely.

3. Adjusting the Grips on the Snath

The correct grip position enables an upright posture and a relaxed mowing motion. In German-speaking regions, two-grip snaths are predominantly used.

3.1 Middle Grip (Front Grip, Right Hand)

The middle grip (the front grip, for the right hand) is mounted approximately at hip bone height.

Place the mounted snath with the scythe on the ground next to your left foot.
Hold the snath as you would later guide it when mowing.
Fix the middle grip approximately at hip bone height.
The grip extension, which many metal and wooden snaths have, should point diagonally upward.

The middle grip largely determines how high your right arm is held when mowing. If it is too low, you will work in a bent position; if it is too high, the shoulder area will be unnecessarily strained.

3.2 Upper Grip (Rear Grip, Left Hand)

The upper grip (the rear grip, for the left hand) is mounted at a certain distance from the front grip.

The upper grip is screwed directly to the blade.
Measure the distance between the two grips. Measure this by resting your elbow on the front grip and then extending the length of your forearm with outstretched fingers, plus a maximum of 10 cm, to the upper grip.
(Alternative method to determine the correct grip distance:
Place the grip at the end of the snath from below into the right armpit and try to grasp the middle grip with your right hand. The grips on the snath are at the correct distance if you can comfortably grasp the middle grip with your right hand when your right arm is extended.)
Fix the upper grip at this distance on the snath.
The upper grip points in the same direction as the middle grip.

This grip position ensures that you can later work with slightly bent arms and that there is sufficient freedom of movement between your hips and the grips.

4. Adjusting the Cutting Height

The cutting height is determined by the position of the scythe blade relative to the snath. It should be set so that the edge does not scrape on the ground when mowing but leads away from the ground at a slight angle.

As a guideline:

At its lowest point, the edge should be approximately 0.5–1 cm above the ground.

To check the cutting height:

Stand in your usual mowing posture on a level, hard surface (e.g., concrete slab, pavement).
Bring the scythe into basic position (similar to when mowing:
back of the blade on the ground, you stand upright between the grips).
Observe the lowest point of the edge—this is usually in the first third of the blade from the tang.

If the edge is too low (scraping on the ground), you can raise it with a wooden wedge:

Insert a narrow wedge from above between the blade end and tang.
The further you push in the wedge, the more the edge lifts from the ground.
Check again until the desired distance of approximately 0.5–1 cm is achieved.

5. Setting the Scythe Blade Angle (Setting the Scythe “in the Circle”)

“Setting” or “setting in the circle” refers to adjusting the angle at which the scythe blade stands relative to the snath.
This angle affects how wide you can mow and how easily the scythe cuts.

5.1 Preparation

Place the scythe on level ground.
Position yourself so that you can grasp the middle grip with your right hand.
Place the upper grip directly above your right foot against your shin and hold it there firmly.

This way, the scythe is supported against your leg during adjustment and does not wobble.

5.2 Checking Beard and Point Position

Note or mark the point where the beard (widest part of the edge near the snath) touches the ground.
Now lift the scythe at the middle grip so that the beard hovers approximately 2 cm above the ground, while the point continues to touch the ground.
Now swing the scythe to the right with your right hand until the point comes to rest at the spot where the beard previously touched the ground (marked point).

Now you can compare the position of the beard and point:

If the point is slightly lower than the marked beard point (e.g., approximately 2 cm), this is a proven basic setting for a medium blade length.
If the point is higher than the marked point, the scythe is set “too wide” and the blade should be set slightly lower.
If the point is significantly lower than the marked point, the scythe is set “too narrow” and the blade should be set slightly wider.

To adjust, loosen the scythe ring enough so that the blade can be raised or lowered with light pressure. Then tighten the ring again and check the position once more.

5.3 Effects of Blade Position

Through the position of the point, you can adapt the scythe to the vegetation and terrain:

Set wider (point more “outward”):
greater cutting width, somewhat higher area coverage, but the scythe requires more guidance and force.
Set narrower (point more “inward”):
smaller cutting width, but the scythe often cuts more easily and smoothly, which can be advantageous with heavy or uneven vegetation.

Longer blades are generally set somewhat narrower than shorter ones so that they remain easy to guide despite their greater length.

6. Final Tightening

When the cutting height, blade angle, and grip positions are correct, the scythe blade is finally secured with the scythe ring.

Tighten the screws of the scythe ring alternately (bottom, top, bottom again, etc.).
Use only enough force so that the ring holds securely but does not deform.
Check from time to time—especially after prolonged storage—whether the blade is still firmly seated.

7. Check in Basic Mowing Position

Finally, a brief check in the basic mowing position is worthwhile:

The back of the scythe rests on the ground.
You stand upright, your body approximately centered between the grips.
Your legs are slightly spread, the right foot slightly ahead of the left.
Your arms form a slight “A” shape from the shoulders to the grips and are only loosely bent.
There is sufficient clearance between your hips and the grips so that the scythe can move freely.
At its lowest point, the edge is approximately 0.5–1 cm above the ground.

If these points are met, your scythe is adjusted so that you can begin with mowing technique in the next step.
The following chapter therefore covers sharpening the scythe—peening and honing, before we then turn to the first cuts in practice.

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